Recent Posts

Monday, 17 December 2012

13th January 2008 - Epernay

Today we are in Epernay and after booking in to our lovely room at La Villa Eugene which is very large by room standards. The receptionist takes great pride in telling us that this hotel was originally a grand home and that the current owners wish to retain the ‘homely’ feel rather than that of a hotel.   


Wandering through Epernay we discover a delightful champagne bar open for business (It is Sunday).  Inside you descend the stairs to the cellar where row upon row of champagnes from the many small vineyards is on display together with photographs of the owners behind the name. Upstairs we begin sampling one of the five champagnes they are featuring this week.  3 euros for 7cl, 4.50 euros for 10cl and 5.50 euros for 14cl.  We are the only English speaking people here however the barman has enough English for us all to communicate very well.  He suggests a local restaurant so we take the car back to the hotel and after freshening up we head back to the bar by taxi for another ‘aperitif’ and then on to the restaurant.


Breakfast in the garden terrace room

12th January 2008

As much as I long for the luxury of Chateau de Bagnols to continue, it is time to move on.  Auxerre lies half way between Paris and Beaune and appears to be a town in need of some serious upkeep.  While everyone gravitates to Beaune, lying in the centre of the Burgundy area, it seems they have simply glazed over Auxerre.  The distinctive Tudor style architecture adds appeal to the cityscape but the side streets appear dishevelled and unkempt.  We stayed at Le Parc des Marechaux which was very nice.






11th January 2008

Tonight we are staying at Chateau de Bagnols.  We have stayed in some fantastic hotels but this is unbelievable! 

Originally built in the 13th century then converted to a chateau/hotel in the 18th century the splendour of this amazing hotel is overwhelming.  We are escorted to our room on the second floor up a winding stone staircase, and as we pass by the oversized copper pot filled with lavender we cross the threshold into a room which is just breathtaking.  The Louis XV bed that dominates the room is resplendent in original hangings of crimson silk. A pair of Louis XV carved chairs are positioned to overlook the courtyard.  Two 17th century walnut chairs covered in rich, purple velvet stand regally either side of a 17th century armoire. The mirror above dates from the time of Louis XIV with a wooden frame decorated with gilded brass.




A chilled carafe of white Beaujolais, macaroons, peeled mandarin and fresh raspberries await us.

The bathroom is larger than many rooms we’ve stayed in!  Dominated by an amazing marble bath in the centre of the room with an intricately carved brass water spout and double basins flank either side of the room.  A huge bottle of bath oil placed on the timber mirrored stand, eau de cologne and of course, bathrobes and slippers.  The “throne” is literally that!  A ceramic toilet set in a timber throne. I can't resist luxuriating in the tub while imagining I’m a member of the French nobility of centuries ago!


Dinner – what can I say?  Laurent Perrier vintage champagne in the salon accompanied by a selection of bite-sized hors d’oeuvres.

Our waiter explains the menu while the sommelier helps us decide on a Chablis, (which turns out to be absolutely superb) to compliment the first half of our meal, followed by a Bordeaux.  We proceed down to the dining room which boasts the largest Gothic style fireplace in France, second largest in Europe.

Silver candelabra with matching water goblets, finely crafted cutlery, frescoes adorning the walls, the evening awash with the soft refrains of classical music to complete the romantic ambience.  As we continue to wallow in this luxury we are served the most magnificent meal imaginable.
Sole served in basil and garlic sauce with white beans, scallops accompanied by shaved truffles, snow peas, carrots and potatoes and a sauce to die for.  An exquisite sea urchin filled with cauliflower and curry served on a bed of pink salt surrounded by seaweed is then followed by shaved truffles and truffle oil set upon a combination of leek and potato served in a leek sabayon.  Plaice is tonight’s offering from the deep, similar to whiting, the small fillets are sliced and served with a chicken jus, artichokes and diced vegetables topped with lemon juice.  Pigeon partnered with ravioli stuffed with foie gras and we are drawing to the end of our magnificent meal.  What can only be referred to as a ‘pre-dessert’ is then served – a tiny chocolate cake topped with cream and fresh raspberry surrounded by coulis together with a selection with petit fours.
You understand immediately the flourish leading to the final course which is definitely the ‘piece de resistance’ of the evening…..dessert!  Nothing less than a work of art the meringue sticks sandwiched with raspberry ice cream sit grandly in the middle of a perfectly flat, black plate accompanied by a cream filled wafer to dip into the violets awash in syrup.  The alternate dessert is two perfectly square cubes of ice cream on a chocolate biscuit topped with chocolate balls then divided by a frame of dark chocolate resting in the middle with a fine skewer of toffee spiralling out from the centre of the plate garnished with gold leaf.  Aaahhhh…….


 

10/01/08

The Palace of the Popes is amazing.  We complete our tour by paying 5.70 euros to sample six wines from the local area (and end up buying two!! ……where are we going to put it all?).  The famous local vineyard is Chateau Neuf de Pape.

 This evening we dine at L’Isle de Sanonde, a small restaurant situated behind the Opera.   The food thus far has been fantastic and this is no exception.  We both choose the 27 euros ‘plat du jour’, Gordy chooses a terrine followed by lapin and I choose black risotto with grilled monk fish and dessert.  Delish!
Breakfast at La Mirande

9th January 2008

We leave Nice behind and set off for Aix-en-Provence where we stop for lunch and take a quick look around before heading off to Avignon. The medieval laneways are clearly built for horse and carts, not Mercedes saloons!  Finding our hotel prove challenging and when we finally arrive at where we think it should be we are further dumbfounded as there seems to be no way in!  By chance I discover the intercom and after a quick conversation they kindly lower the bollards and we make our way around to "La Mirande".  The hotel is fantastic!  The room is not large but is just perfect. 



We are told that the restaurant is closed that evening but are invited to join a private birthday dinner.  We start in the 'caves' with champagne then move up to the kitchen where the chef is cooking down one end of the table.  Soup, pot au feu, tarte au tatin and a collection of fromages that rivalled anything I had seen before....or since.  Sixteen guests in total and Gordy and I and one other delightful lady (whose husband is French) are the only ones that can speak English...but we somehow managed to communicate beautifully and it was an incredibly memorable night.


La Mirande on the right, Palais de Papes on the left.


The Bridge of Avignon - looking back at the city.







Eze and Monaco - 8th Jan 2008

I'm back!  Only five years to catch up on!

 After picking up a hire car we set off along a very windy road to Monaco stopping at Eze on the way.  Eze is a beautiful medieval township built high on a mountain and really worth the stop. 
Wandering the alleyways of Eze


We stroll along the water beside the million dollar (plus) luxury yachts to find a restaurant for lunch.  The bay is cradled by hills that sweep upward and are dotted with amazing apartments that all must have the most amazing views of this luxe town.  After lunch we wander over to the casino.... after all, this is Monte Carlo!  It costs ten euros to enter the gaming room, but it's a 'must see', exquisitely decorated.  I quickly lose 60 euros on roulette but then double the next 100!

So much for that!

Obviously I lost the plot in London!  Came back to Oz and commenced my studies.  It has not been a successful venture (just an expensive one).  Oh well.....about to embark on a new adventure so keep posted!